Poland, Latvia, and Lithuania (December 2024 - January 2025)

Gregory T. Wilkins

Jan 855 min read

Christmas Market - Krakow, Poland

December 10, 2024 Delta Flight Depart Dec. 10 - Minneapolis/St. Paul International Airport - USA

Tue, Dec 10, 2024		Wed, Dec 11, 2024
03:20 PM		06:40 AM
Minneapolis/St. Paul, MN, US (MSP)		Frankfurt, DE (FRA)

Wed, Dec 11, 2024		Wed, Dec 11, 2024
12:10 PM		01:50 PM
Frankfurt, DE (FRA)		Warsaw, PL (WAW)

Tuesday, December 10 - Depart USA

Planning has consistently been one of my strengths, particularly when it comes to travel. The act of methodically organizing my packing list brings a sense of calm. Typically, I pack six undershirts, six pairs of boxer briefs, two pairs of wool socks, sleepwear, one black wool turtleneck, a toiletry kit, a camera, a computer, a backup drive, and a travel towel. I prioritize simplicity, and all of my clothing is black. This color choice not only simplifies laundry by eliminating the need for sorting but also minimizes the cost of washing, which I have found can be significantly higher abroad compared to the United States, largely due to the cost of drying and energy consumption.

During my trip last year to Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Estonia, I opted to wear leather pants throughout the journey. Initially uncertain about their ability to provide sufficient warmth, I was pleasantly surprised by their effectiveness. To ensure extra warmth, I also packed Patagonia snow pants as a precaution. My wardrobe included a black Ralph Lauren turtleneck sweater, a wool turtleneck from Iceland, Patagonia down jacket, Patagonia zippered jacket and puffer vest, long johns, all topped off with a Dale of Norway wool skull cap plus winter gloves with liner. This layering system kept me comfortably warm, and I intend to replicate this strategy for this trip.

While winter travel is not everyone's preference, I find it advantageous. The colder weather tends to reduce costs and deter most tourists, leaving the cities more peaceful. Personally, I prefer exploring destinations with fewer crowds. I adhere to the belief that there is no such thing as bad weather—only inadequate clothing. And in the rare case that one finds themselves unprepared, there’s always the option to shop for additional gear. ************************************ My experience on the Lufthansa flight was positive overall. The airline implemented a system the day prior to departure that allowed passengers without pre-selected seats to view the available seating options and choose their preferred locations. This system saved me $25, as I was able to select an aisle seat situated in the middle section of the plane. Fortunately, the middle seat next to me remained unoccupied, allowing me to spread out comfortably during the flight. The journey was a direct flight from Minneapolis-St. Paul (MSP) to Frankfurt, Germany, and proceeded smoothly without any disruptions. The in-flight meal exceeded expectations for economy class offerings and included beef, mashed potatoes, coleslaw with tomato, a roll, crackers and cheese, and chocolate coconut cake for dessert. Additionally, international flights are an enjoyable experience because they provide complimentary wine and cocktails. I opted for a gin and tonic, apple juice, and sparkling wine.

Unfortunately, my ability to rest was disrupted during the flight due to the presence of crying children. This prompted me to reflect on the possibility of a child-free flight. For instance, the cruise industry has successfully implemented child-free options (e.g., Virgin Cruises). I find it intriguing to consider whether a similar approach could succeed in the airline industry.

Upon arrival in Frankfurt at approximately 6 a.m., I felt the effects of exhaustion. Though I was eager to rest, I resolved to remain awake for as long as possible to expedite my adjustment to the new time zone. On a less fortunate note, I believe I am beginning to catch a cold. My nose started running the previous day and has persisted into today. My hope is to avoid becoming "sick," and I have packed Advil as a precautionary measure in case of headaches. Additionally, I brought Advil PM to take this evening to aid with sleep and facilitate quicker adaptation to the time difference. Here's to the start of another adventure.

The Frankfurt Airport is remarkably large and even has a Z terminal. Some notable facts about the airport include:

It serves over 65 million passengers annually.
It handles more than 460,000 flights each year.
Over 2 million tons of cargo pass through its facilities.
Frankfurt Airport is Germany's busiest airport by passenger traffic and ranks as the sixth busiest in Europe.

And now for the wait...I have approximately a 7-hour layover before my flight to Warsaw, Poland departs. **********************************

With the recent U.S. presidential election in November 2024, my heart is pounding with angst. Have we forgotten so quickly the chaos unleashed the last time 'T' was in office? It was a relentless, unsettling circus, with the White House spinning out a new, false narrative every week—sometimes every day! And here we are again. It’s like the past dissolved overnight, leaving us to repeat the same mistakes. I will not be quiet!

Do not go gentle into that good night,

Old age should burn and rave at close of day;

Rage, rage against the dying of the light. ~Dylan Thomas I will not go gently; I will fight for justice and equity. I will not stand idly by and witness my country fall to fascism. And so as I prepare for another U.S. presidential inauguration, I will celebrate his end so that when the pendulum swings, it will knock sense into the hearts and minds of Americans.

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December 11 – 15 - Warsaw, Poland

Stay at: Kapsuła Hostel WarszawaDowcip 4, Sródmiescie, 00-051 Warsaw, Poland

Tele: +48 605 082 335

VISIT: Old Town, including the Royal Castle, Łazienki Park, Wilanów Palace December 11, 2024 Warsaw, the capital and largest city of Poland, is located on the Vistula River in east-central Poland. With a population of approximately 1.86 million residents and a metropolitan area totaling 3.27 million inhabitants, it ranks as the 7th most populous city in the European Union. The city is administratively divided into 18 districts.

Historically, Warsaw originated as a small fishing settlement in the Masovia region and gained prominence in the late 16th century when Sigismund III relocated the Polish capital and royal court from Kraków. It functioned as the de facto capital until 1795. During the 19th-century Industrial Revolution, Warsaw experienced significant growth, becoming one of Europe’s largest and most densely populated urban centers. However, the city suffered severe devastation during World War II, with much of its historical architecture destroyed. The Warsaw Ghetto Uprising of 1943, the Warsaw Uprising of 1944, and widespread destruction during the war led to the loss of a significant portion of its population and cultural heritage.

Today, Warsaw is served by two international airports: the busiest, Warsaw Chopin Airport, and the smaller Warsaw Modlin Airport, which caters to low-cost carriers. The city's public transportation network includes a metro system, buses, commuter rail, and an extensive tram system. Notably, Warsaw has one of the highest concentrations of skyscrapers in Europe, with Varso Place being the tallest building in the EU.

Warsaw is home to leading educational and cultural institutions, including the University of Warsaw, the Warsaw University of Technology, the SGH Warsaw School of Economics, the Fryderyk Chopin University of Music, and the Polish Academy of Sciences. Significant cultural landmarks include the National Philharmonic Orchestra, the National Museum, and the Grand Theatre. Additionally, Warsaw's Old Town, which was reconstructed after World War II, showcases a variety of European architectural styles and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1980.

The hostel I am staying is Kapsuła Hostel. It is a capsule hostel where all the "rooms" are capsules. Think of it like a small shipping container with an electric door, bed, blanket, 2 shelves, and a locker for your luggage. It is nothing fancy but very affordable for a capitol city. The restrooms are clean, economy showers where you have to keep pushing the water gauge to keep it running, and a community reception. It is centrally located to all things Warsaw, and it's close to two universities, many churches, and also close to the rail station, and on several major local bus routes (for ex., 116 ends right to Wilanow Palace).

Reception and Lounge

Capsule

Capsules at Night

Showers

Restrooms To keep the hostel clean, when you check-in you are provided slippers. You leave your shoes/boots at the reception desk in a bin. When you check in and out, you exchange your street wear for clean slippers. You wear the slippers throughout the hostel until you are ready to go outside.//

Slippers and Bin ******************************************* Waking up at 7 a.m., I slept better than I had thought I would. Maybe it's because I was exhausted. Someone coughed the early part of the night which kept me up, but before I knew it I was out. I woke up twice. Once to go to the bathroom and the next time was because my body was ready but it was still too early. So, I turned over and went back to sleep -- only to be woken by my alarm. I discovered that the early part of the day the hallways are monitored by an electric light. It makes it challenging at first because they keep going out when you are trying to get settled. By evening time, they turn to an evening mode which keeps the side hallway lights on without having to disturb other sleepers. By morning, they go back to the day mode. It's one way to keeping costs down and being environmentally friendly. The showers too are environmentally friendly. They remain on for a short period of time, and you have to keep pushing the faucet on to keep the water running. It can be a bit tricky as first, but before long I got the idea. When in doubt, keep pushing the faucet down to keep it running. I took bus 116 to the end which brought me to Wilanow Palace. It is across the street from the bus station and a short walk to the palace. Doing a little research, I discovered the entrance was free on Thursday! It also worked out well because this is the last week it is open this year before closing for the winter holiday and New Years. The palace opens at 10 a.m. and the gardens at 9 a.m. Arriving early, I had the place to myself except for a group of school children, their teachers, and a palace guide. I wandered the gardens and fifteen minutes before the palace opened, I settled into the coffee shop to warm up. At 10 a.m. promptly, I entered the palace. I was expecting more wow, until I realized that everything was pillaged during wars and uprisings. Hundreds of paintings were stolen by Hitler. Some were sent to Krakow to the national museum only to be lost or burned when the city was hits by bombs in WWII. Others were scattered across the region for safekeeping only to never be returned. And to this day, new works continue to be discovered and the government has to fight to get them returned.

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace is a former royal palace located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, Poland. It was built between 1677–1696 for King of Poland John III Sobieski according to a design by architect Augustyn Wincenty Locci in the last quarter of the 17th century. Wilanów Palace survived both World Wars, and serves as one of the most remarkable examples of Baroque architecture in the country.

It is one of Poland's most important monuments and is currently a museum. It was established in 1805, and it is a repository of the country's royal and artistic heritage and receives around 3 million visitors annually, making it one of the most visited palaces on Earth.

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace - Queen's Bedroom

Wilanów Palace - Gallery

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace - Chandelier

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace

Wilanów Palace

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Church of the Holy Cross The Church of the Holy Cross, a Roman Catholic place of worship, stands opposite the main campus of Warsaw University and is one of the most renowned Baroque churches in the capital of Poland.

Its history dates back to the 15th century, when a small wooden chapel dedicated to the Holy Cross was built on the site. This chapel was demolished in 1526 and replaced with a newer church. In 1615, Paweł Zembrzuski expanded and renovated the structure, but it eventually proved too small for the city's growing population. Originally situated outside Warsaw’s boundaries, by the 17th century, it had become a prominent church in the southern suburb of the city, which had been declared Poland's capital in 1596.

In 1653, Queen Marie Louise Gonzaga entrusted the church to a French order of Friars. However, the Swedish invasion during the Deluge (1655–1660) left the church plundered and irreparably damaged. During the reign of King John III Sobieski, the remaining structure was torn down, and plans for a new church were initiated. Construction of the present building took place between 1679 and 1696, led by royal architect Józef Szymon Bellotti.

A notable feature of the church is an urn containing the heart of composer Frédéric Chopin, which was embedded in one of its pillars in 1882.

***************************** St. Anne’s Church St. Anne's Church, a Roman Catholic landmark in Warsaw's historic center near Castle Square, is one of Poland's most renowned churches, featuring a striking Neoclassical façade. As one of the city's oldest structures, the church has undergone numerous reconstructions, achieving its current form in 1788. Today, it serves as the primary parish for Warsaw's academic community.

The Neoclassical façade, completed in 1788 during the reign of King Stanisław August Poniatowski, was adorned with statues of the Four Evangelists, sculpted by Jakub Monaldi and Franciszek Pinck. Inside, the church showcases a high-Baroque design, complete with richly adorned chapels and frescoes. Its interior leaves a lasting impression on visitors with its vibrant artistry and architectural grandeur.

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Cathedral of St. John the Baptist St. John's Cathedral, a Catholic church in Warsaw's Old Town, is distinguished by its prominent brick Gothic architecture. Among the city's three main cathedrals, it is the only one with the title of an archcathedral. Serving as the mother church of the archdiocese and a Polish national pantheon, it is also part of the UNESCO-listed Old Town World Heritage Site.

The cathedral's richly adorned Early Baroque interior, including a magnificent painting on the main altar by Palma il Giovane depicting the Virgin and Child with St. John the Baptist and St. Stanisław, was destroyed during the German bombing on August 17, 1944. Later that year, the Germans razed the cathedral almost entirely, leaving only one surviving wall of the six-century-old monument. This deliberate devastation was part of the planned destruction of Warsaw following the collapse of the Warsaw Uprising.

The central altar painting, commissioned in 1618 by King Sigismund III Vasa, was a masterpiece created specifically for St. John’s Cathedral. Confiscated by Napoleon and transported to Paris, it was recovered by Warsaw authorities in the 1820s after the Congress of Vienna. Although it survived numerous conflicts and bombings, it was ultimately lost during World War II.