Italy 2023 (Part 2)

Broken Vessel in Murano Warehouse ************************************************************************ Venice, Italy

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia Set off on a journey through time and discovery at the Natural History Museum, dramatically housed in the Fontego dei Turchi—a storied palazzo rising from the Grand Canal with a façade as bold as the centuries it has witnessed. Built in the 13th century for the powerful Pesaro family, this iconic structure, with its striking double loggia in Venetian-Byzantine style and fortress-like corner towers, hints at its past life as a bustling trading depot for treasures from the East.

Through a whirlwind of ownerships—from nobility like Nicolò d’Este, lord of Ferrara, to its transformation in 1621 into the official residence and market for Turkish merchants—the building was a vibrant crossroads of commerce and culture until 1838. After extensive restoration beginning in 1865, it welcomed visitors as part of the Museo Correr before becoming the Natural History Museum in 1923.

Today, stepping into the museum is like launching into an expedition through 700 million years of Earth's story. Amassed from scientific institutions like the Museo Correr and the Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere e Arti—and enriched by countless donations and discoveries—the museum’s 2 million specimens span from ancient fossils to curious ‘marvels,’ from intricate entomological collections to rare ethnographic pieces. It’s a cabinet of wonders, housing not just the relics of nature, but also the thrill of adventure itself, wrapped in the silence of an ancient Venetian palazzo.

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - entrance

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - entrance

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - entrance

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - entrance

The collection today is okay, but I was underwhelmed in part because I have see other collections that are more impressive. For a city the size of Venice, it is an wonderful resource. I was particularly surprised to see some photographs by the Aga Khan's son that focused on whales.

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - African Taxidermy

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - African Taxidermy I must admit, I got a little creeped out seeing a gorilla outstretched as well as feet of rhinos.

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Beetles

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - dinosaur

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Bat Taxidermy

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Primate

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Taxidermy

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Taxidermy

Museo di Storia Naturale di Venezia - Human

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Step into the legacy of one of Venice’s most illustrious families at Palazzo Mocenigo, once the grand residence of the San Stae branch of the powerful Mocenigo lineage. With seven Doges among their ranks, the Mocenigos left an indelible mark on the city’s history—and their palazzo still breathes the spirit of that grandeur.

In 1945, Alvise Nicolò Mocenigo, the last heir of the family, gifted this noble home to Venice, envisioning it as a Gallery of Art to enrich the Museo Correr. But its destiny evolved. In 1985, the palazzo was transformed into the Museum and Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and Costumes—a haven for lovers of elegance, craftsmanship, and the fine art of adornment.

Now, visitors can wander through rooms filled with sumptuous textiles and exquisite garments drawn from prestigious collections like the Correr, Guggenheim, Cini, and Palazzo Grassi. The museum also houses a rich library devoted to the evolution of costume and fashion, with a special focus on the luxurious style of the 18th century.

After a careful restoration, the palazzo reopened in 2013—its creaking floors and storied halls now alive with the rustle of silk, the whisper of lace, and the adventure of discovering how fabric helped shape Venice’s golden age..

Embroidery Detail

Embroidery Detail

Embroidery Detail

Embroidery Detail

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Entrance

Perched on the edge of the Grand Canal in Venice’s Dorsoduro sestiere, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection invites visitors into a world where bold visions and radical creativity meet timeless elegance. Housed in the low-slung yet majestic Palazzo Venier dei Leoni—an 18th-century palace with a view like no other—this museum was once the private home of the legendary American heiress and art patron Peggy Guggenheim.

For thirty years, Guggenheim made the palazzo not only her residence but also a sanctuary for modern art. In 1951, she began welcoming the public into her world, sharing a dazzling personal collection during seasonal exhibitions. After her passing in 1979, the collection became part of the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, which opened the museum to visitors year-round beginning in 1980.

Today, stepping into the museum is like diving into the heart of 20th-century art history. The collection pulses with the energy of Italian Futurists, American modernists, and masters of Cubism, Surrealism, and Abstract Expressionism. Sculptures punctuate the indoor and outdoor spaces, offering quiet moments of reflection amid the bold strokes of innovation.

Whether you're an art lover or simply curious, visiting the Peggy Guggenheim Collection is an adventure into the avant-garde—where Venice’s old soul meets modern audacity on the banks of its most famous canal.

Gino Severini Sea = Dancer 1914

Tancredi Parmegianni Untitled 1955

Jackson Pollock The Moon Woman 1942

The Peggy Guggenheim Collection is more than just a museum—it’s the living legacy of a woman who reshaped the modern art world with daring taste and relentless curiosity. Peggy Guggenheim, niece of mining magnate Solomon R. Guggenheim and one-time wife of Surrealist artist Max Ernst, began assembling her iconic collection during the turbulent years between 1938 and 1946. As Europe edged toward war, she acquired masterpieces across the continent, later continuing her acquisitions in the United States, where she famously discovered the raw genius of Jackson Pollock.

Her former home, the Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, sits low and regal on the Grand Canal in Dorsoduro—a serene and elegant backdrop for a collection that pulses with the bold energy of Cubism, Surrealism, Italian Futurism, and Abstract Expressionism. From its intimate galleries to its sculpture-filled gardens, the museum offers an immersive journey through some of the most pivotal movements in 20th-century art.

Since opening to the public year-round in 1980 under the Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation, the museum has become Venice’s second most-visited attraction, welcoming around 400,000 guests each year. The charm is undeniable: a perfect blend of architectural grace, artistic innovation, and personal history.

Wander the canal-side gardens and shaded courtyard where sculptures nestle among greenery, and explore the museum’s latest wing—home to a stylish shop and a restaurant with views as captivating as the art. It’s not just a visit; it’s a plunge into Peggy’s world, where every corner tells a story of passion, risk, and discovery.

Marino Marini The Angel of the City 1948

******************************************* Burano and Murano, Italy When most people think of Venice, their minds go straight to the postcard scenes—St. Mark’s Square, the Rialto Bridge, the Grand Canal. But what they often miss is the broader wonder of the Venetian Lagoon itself. Beyond the bustling heart of the city lies a mosaic of over 100 islands scattered across 212 square miles—a rich and often overlooked ecosystem where history, tradition, and serenity still thrive.

Venice may only be home to about 80,000 residents, but it hosts a staggering 25 million tourists a year. It’s a staggering imbalance—one that can overwhelm even the most devoted admirers of the city. The crowds can be dense, the main arteries clogged, and the infrastructure stretched to its limit. In fact, the city has begun exploring the implementation of a tourist tax to help mitigate the impact of such heavy foot traffic and preserve its fragile heritage.

While most visitors never wander far beyond the gleaming icons of the city center, the outer islands offer an entirely different kind of Venetian experience—one of quiet alleyways, working docks, family-run workshops, and centuries-old churches unbothered by the press of selfie sticks. Here, in places like Sant’Erasmo, Torcello, and San Michele, the old rhythms still hold sway, and the true soul of Venice hums just beneath the surface.

Even the more popular outposts like Murano and Burano, known for their glassmaking and lacework, are beginning to feel the strain of attention. But go a little farther, a little slower, and the reward is timeless: a glimpse of Venice not just as a destination, but as a living, breathing archipelago.

Burano Burano is a short boat ride from Venice and 4 miles away (roughly 45 minutes by Vaporetto). It is best known for it brightly colored houses and history of lace making. Approximately 2,800 people live here, and it is supported by tourism.

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano

Burano When Leonardo da Vinci visited in 1481, he purchased a cloth for the main altar of the Duomo di Milano. The lace was soon exported across Europe, but trade began to decline in the 18th century and the industry did not revive until 1872, when a school of lacemaking was opened. Lacemaking on the island boomed again, but few who live there now make lace in the traditional manner as it is extremely time-consuming and therefore expensive. Most of the "lace" that is there is made now by machine and imported from China.

When Leonardo da Vinci visited Venice in 1481, he was so taken by the craftsmanship of the region that he purchased a cloth for the main altar of the Duomo di Milano—an early nod to the exquisite lacework that would soon become one of Venice’s most sought-after exports. For centuries, the delicate art of Venetian lace enchanted courts across Europe, adorning everything from ecclesiastical vestments to aristocratic gowns.

But like many traditional crafts, the lace trade began to decline in the 18th century, its intricacies falling out of step with the changing pace of industry and fashion. It wasn’t until 1872 that the delicate threads of the tradition were picked up again, when a lacemaking school was established on the island of Burano. This revival sparked a new golden age, with nimble fingers once again weaving elaborate patterns passed down through generations.

Today, however, the lace that made Burano famous is becoming increasingly rare. True handmade pieces—each one a labor of love requiring hours, sometimes days, of work—are now treasures rather than souvenirs. Most of the lace seen on the island is mass-produced and imported, often from China, a far cry from the artistry that once graced the courts of Europe.

To find the real thing, you’ll have to look closely—sometimes inside quiet churches where old altar cloths tell the story better than any shopfront. There, in the stillness, the legacy of Burano’s lacemakers endures: fragile, intricate, and all the more precious for its rarity.

Burano Lace

Burano Lace

Burano Lace

Burano Lace Just a short ferry ride from Venice lies Murano—an island just one mile across, with around 5,000 inhabitants, and a name that has become synonymous with glass. Though close in distance, it holds a world of tradition all its own. Despite its modest size, Murano swells daily with waves of tourists eager to glimpse its fiery furnaces and glittering showrooms.

Murano’s glassmaking legacy was forged in 1291, when the Venetian Republic, fearing fire hazards in the city’s wooden buildings, ordered all glass production to relocate to the island. What followed was the rise of a powerful artisan class. By the 14th century, Murano’s glassmakers had achieved near-aristocratic status—granted the right to wear swords, protected from prosecution by the state, and often marrying into Venice’s wealthiest families.

These privileges came at a cost: the Republic forbade them from leaving Venice, determined to guard its trade secrets. But some dared to defy the edict, smuggling their knowledge abroad and establishing glassmaking centers in cities as far-flung as Amsterdam and London—seeding Europe with Murano’s brilliance, even as the Republic tried to keep the flame at home.

Today, among the crowds and showroom glitz, the island’s furnaces still burn. And if you seek it out, in quiet corners and family-run workshops, you can still find the spark of that centuries-old craft—where molten sand becomes art, and every bubble in the glass carries a breath of history.

Murano Glass

Murano Glass

Murano Glass

Murano Glass

Murano Glass In the following century, exports began, and the island became famous, initially for glass beads and mirrors. At one time, Murano was the main producer of glass in Europe. The island later became known for chandeliers. Although decline set in during the eighteenth century, glassmaking is still the island's main industry. **************************************************

Bologna, Italy

Utility Cover

Bologna, Italy—capital of the Emilia-Romagna region and its largest city—is a place that wears many names and many colors. Known as La Grassa (The Fat One) for its famously rich cuisine, La Rossa (The Red One) for its terracotta rooftops and political leanings, and La Dotta (The Learned One) for its ancient university, this city is a layered, living mosaic of culture, history, and progressive spirit. With about 400,000 residents representing 150 nationalities and over a million in the greater metropolitan area, Bologna feels both intimate and expansive—an old soul with a cosmopolitan heartbeat.

Famous for its medieval towers, elegant churches, and an astonishing 40 kilometers of porticos, Bologna’s historic center is one of the best preserved in Europe. Much of that is thanks to a visionary restoration movement that began in the late 1970s, ensuring the city’s architectural beauty continues to shine. The University of Bologna, founded in 1088, draws students from all over the world, giving the city a youthful, creative energy that hums beneath its ancient skin.

It was this mix of history and vibrancy that welcomed me to Bologna for Various Voices, an international queer choral festival with a 35-year legacy. Originally scheduled earlier but delayed by the global pause of the pandemic, the 2023 edition brought new life to the city. With roots stretching back to 1985 in Cologne and its humble start with just four choirs, the festival has blossomed into a major celebration of LGBTQ+ visibility and musical excellence—most recently drawing more than 100 choirs from 19 nations.

Various Voices is part of Legato, the European Association of LGBTQ+ Choirs, representing over 128 choirs and 4,000 singers across 20 countries. More than just an umbrella organization, Legato builds bridges—between communities, nations, and generations—fostering artistic exchange and pushing back against discrimination, especially in parts of Eastern Europe where LGBTQ+ identity remains criminalized or persecuted.

And in the midst of it all, Bologna itself surprised me—constantly. What first caught my eye wasn’t a tower or a cathedral, but street art: vibrant, witty, thoughtful bursts of expression tucked into doorways, dancing across walls, and whispering from alleyways. Each piece felt like a secret the city wanted to share, just for a moment.

Bologna doesn’t just invite you to see it—it asks you to look closer. And when you do, you’ll find it’s a city of endless discovery, where past and present, protest and poetry, food and philosophy all share the same streets.

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

Street Art

I stayed at local Air B&B called Tilia - Via del Cestello 4, 40124 Bologna, Italy. It is in a house with small garden. I had a private, ensuite room with daily breakfast. The room had 12 feet ceilings, large windows that poured in the light, and wood floors. I usually don't stay somewhere this nice, but I had professional development money from the university to use for my attendance at Various Voices. The location is approximately 30 minutes from the railroad and close to the city center.

Tilia - Room Ensuite

Tilia - Room

Tilia - Room

Tilia - Room ************************************************************** The Basilica dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano stands quietly in Bologna’s historic center, steeped in centuries of devotion and layered history. Originally dedicated to Saint Bartholomew in the 5th century, the church’s roots trace back to Saint Petronius himself, who is said to have built it on the foundations of an earlier Christian structure. By the 13th century, a modest church stood on the site, humbly anchoring what would become a much grander spiritual home.

In 1516, the powerful Gozzadini family commissioned Andrea Marchesi to design an ambitious renovation, aiming to transform the existing church into a space worthy of their prestige. But the plan was cut short when Giovanni di Bernardino Gozzadini was assassinated that same year—an act that stalled the project indefinitely. Of that grand vision, only the elegant portico survives, a silent witness to a chapter that might have been.

Despite its turbulent past, the church endured and evolved. In 1924, Pope Pius XI elevated it to the status of minor basilica, solidifying its place among the city’s revered sacred sites. Today, the Basilica dei Santi Bartolomeo e Gaetano remains a place of quiet beauty and devotion—its layered history echoing softly through its walls, its portico still standing as both a beginning and a memory.

Inlaid Marble from Altar The church is divided internally by three naves and has rich Baroque decoration throughout the space. The vault of the central nave is frescoed with quadratures and the Stories of San Gaetano (starting from the counter-façade: Vision of San Gaetano , Spirituality of Saint Cajetan , the Fight against heresy ).

In the apse three scenes from the life of Saint Bartholomew are depicted: on the left Saint Bartholomew preaches to the Armenians and destroys the idol , on the right Saint Bartholomew frees the daughter of the king of Armenia from the devil and in the center the Martyrdom of Saint Bartholomew .

The large dome was decorated by the Rolli brothers in the mid-1600s. The side chapels are embellished with some notable 17th century Bolognese paintings. Above the entrance door is the organ built by Giuseppe Colonna in 1644 and modified and restored several times.

Ceiling

Main Altar

Mosaic Floor

Main Altar

Looking Toward Organ The beautiful bell tower, with baroque lines, is about fifty meters high and is one of the tallest in Bologna, but this characteristic is unfortunately penalized by the nearby and looming presence of the Two Towers. On the side facing Piazza di Porta Ravegnana there is the clock face, inaugurated by Camillo Franchini in 1857, which is still perfectly functional. *************************************************

Basilica di San Petronio - Stained Glass The Basilica di San Petronio rises with unyielding presence over Piazza Maggiore, claiming its place not just as the largest church in Bologna, but as one of the great monumental churches of Europe. Though its façade remains famously unfinished—raw stone giving way to exposed brick—it loses none of its grandeur. If anything, that unfinished quality adds to its mystique, a visible reminder of both ambition and interruption.

Measuring 132 meters in length and 60 meters in width, with a soaring vault that reaches 44.27 meters—and 51 meters at the front façade—San Petronio ranks as the sixth largest church in Italy. (Or fifth, if one excludes St. Peter’s Basilica, which technically lies outside Italian territory in Vatican City.) Its sheer volume—an astonishing 258,000 cubic meters—makes it the largest brick Gothic church ever built.

Named after Bologna’s patron saint, the basilica is more than an architectural marvel—it is a testament to civic pride. Unlike many great cathedrals commissioned by popes or kings, San Petronio was a people’s project, envisioned by the Bolognese themselves. Declared a minor basilica, it still holds that spirit: a vast, echoing space where devotion, art, and history all converge under the weight of brick and time.

Basilica di San Petronio

Basilica di San Petronio - Stained Glass

Basilica di San Petronio

Basilica di San Petronio

Basilica di San Petronio - Stained Glass

Basilica di San Petronio

Basilica di San Petronio - Main Altar *************************************************************** The Cattedrale di San Pietro, also known as Bologna Cathedral, stands as both a spiritual and historical centerpiece of the city. Dedicated to Saint Peter, it serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Bologna, drawing countless visitors and worshippers alike into its serene embrace. Though the cathedral’s current form largely dates to the 17th century, it holds traces of earlier construction, with portions stretching back to the late 16th century.

However, the roots of this sacred site go much deeper. The original church was established on the same spot in 1028, along what is now Via Indipendenza. But in 1141, disaster struck when a devastating fire consumed the structure. The cathedral was rebuilt, and in 1184, it was consecrated by Pope Lucius III, marking its rebirth. Over the centuries, the building continued to evolve, with layers of architectural styles reflecting the changing tastes and needs of the city.

The cathedral’s campanile—towering over Bologna—holds the distinction of being the second tallest in the city, offering a striking counterpoint to the grandeur of its interior. With its historical depth and majestic presence, the Cattedrale di San Pietro remains a key landmark in Bologna, where the past and present harmoniously converge.

Bologna Cathedral - Organ Pipes

Bologna Cathedral - Organ Pipes

Bologna Cathedral

Bologna Cathedral

Bologna Cathedral

Bologna Cathedral - Ceiling

Bologna Cathedral ********************************************** The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini is a quiet but historically rich church in Bologna, with its origins tracing back to 1368 when it was founded by Pietro da Morrone, who later became Pope Celestine V. The church and its adjacent monastery were established after the monks were invited to the city by the noble Antonio di Ubaldino Galluzzi, whose family owned a group of buildings in the area—a connection that led to the modern name of Corte de' Galluzzi.

The church, originally dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, has undergone several significant expansions and renovations over the centuries. In the 1500s, the church itself was updated between 1524 and 1554, with the monastery undergoing its own renovations from 1560-1561. The bell tower was also revamped in 1580, reflecting the evolving architectural tastes of the time.

However, the church as it stands today owes much of its current form to a major 18th-century intervention by two notable architects, Carlo Francesco Dotti and Francesco Tadolini. Their work brought the church into its present state, blending earlier influences with a Baroque flair that continues to grace the area. The Chiesa di San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini, with its layered history, remains a testament to Bologna's evolving architectural and religious landscape.

Chiesa de San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini - Ceiling

Chiesa de San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini - Altar Cloth

Chiesa de San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini - Main Altar

Chiesa de San Giovanni Battista dei Celestini ********************************************** The Chiesa dei Filippini Madonna di Galliera e di San Filippo Neri, often simply called Madonna di Galliera, is a captivating church that blends Renaissance and Baroque elements. Located in the heart of Bologna on Via Manzoni, directly across from the Palazzo Ghisilardi Fava, this church stands as a rich testament to the city’s evolving architectural styles.

The church's origins date back to 1304, when it was founded by a charitable order known as the Compagnia dei Poveri Vergognosi, or the Confraternity of the Shameful Poor. In 1622, the church was acquired by the Oratorians, a religious order founded by Saint Philip Neri. Under their stewardship, the church underwent significant changes, including the lavish refurbishment of its interiors. However, the most striking feature of the church is its sculpturally ornate stone façade, which began construction in 1479 and reflects the craftsmanship of the Renaissance.

The church suffered damage during World War II, but its resilience ensured that restoration efforts would bring it back to life. In 2014, extensive restoration work was completed, allowing visitors to once again admire the blend of intricate design elements. Today, the Madonna di Galliera remains a serene and historic gem in the heart of Bologna, where the rich tapestry of its past continues to inform its beauty.

Madonna di Galliera - Ceiling

Madonna di Gallier

Madonna di Gallier

Madonna di Gallier - Ceiling

Madonna di Gallier - Ceiling

Madonna di Gallier - Ceiling ************************************************** The Basilica of San Martino Maggiore is located in the square of the same name in the historic center of Bologna . It constitutes a parish governed by the Carmelite fathers. In August 1941 Pope Pius XII elevated it to a minor basilica.

Basilica of San Martino Maggiore - Entrance

Basilica of San Martino Maggiore

Basilica of San Martino Maggiore

Basilica of San Martino Maggiore ********************************************** Costs in Euro: $497.34 - 6 nights at Tilia with breakfast, private room and bath $9.00 - Laundry $7.60 - 3 day Milan Metro pass $13.53 - mozzarella, salad, proseco, proscuitto, herbs, tomatoes $7 - 2 tshirts $1.60 sandwich $2.80 sandwich and cookies $13 - 3 day Metro pass $4.90 sandwich $10 - museum with university ID $12.81 - salad, proscuitto, cookies, watermelon, mint, balsamic, mozzarella, salami $10.78 - lettucs, beer, salami, cookies, sandwich, wine $13 - Metro pass for 3 days $6.34 - sandwich, cookies, Coke $32 - roudtrp train to Como $3.48 - salad, salami, mozzarella $2.20 - Metro to train station $13 - train to airport $7.50 - airport food - Coke, cookie, sandwich